How To Train Finger Strength For Climbing At Home Reddit Luckily, there are simple workouts you can do from the comfort of your own home that will help you build strength for rock climbing, Without the right strength, your grip and endurance will suffer, e, r/griptraining is a super knowledgable community and has a section in the sidebar specifically addressing grip training for climbing, But which exercises and methods specifically improve maximum strength, strength endurance, and other factors? A ranking by training experts provides clarity – for beginners to advanced climbers, I would not recommend a beginner to just starting hangboarding, Hangboards and no hang devices are the best substitutes for long periods of no climbing, 6 weeks is actually a great timeframe for a training cycle too! There are tons of protocols out - Even if your grip strength is absolutely terrible, static hangs aren't the ideal exercise right now (until you're really working on problems at the gym that require grip strength, avoid hang boards all together), I’ve been climbing for about a month now, and I want do everything in my power to get better, Every video I've watched on finger strength assessment has subjects hanging on 20mm edges with various amounts of added weight or lengths of time, g, Unfortunately, the only advice I’ve found is that to build this, you have to continue climbing, May 15, 2021 · Yet, you’d still like to get a little workout in so you can keep getting stronger, Mar 24, 2025 · This comprehensive approach to rock climbing grip training will assist climbers—regardless of their skill level—in safely optimizing their finger strength for improved climbing performance, 62x BW 1rm chinup and working on OAC) ? Edit: thank you for everyone who seriously answered! Finger training Hello, I'm not looking for rapid results or anything, You strengthen your finger flexors when you climb, so when you’re not climbing, work on your extensors, Here are tips for hangboarding your way to finger strength, Hangboards don't need 10 different pocket combinations to work, I generally climb v5, 11b-11c outside and I can only pull 40-45lbs for 10 reps and it feels like it's working my climbing muscles a lot harder than doing deadlifts with the tension block with 90-100lbs, Climbing multiple times a week does wonders for finger strength if you focus on working problems that require a lot of finger strength, 1 attribute for climbing performance… It’s no wonder everybody talks about finger strength training and the endless training sessions and tools that exist, but this can also make it a bit overwhelming when it comes to knowing what is best?! We thought it would be great to sit down with some of the best climbers in the UK (and who have some of the Oct 11, 2025 · Incorporating grip strength into a training program depends on your level and training goals, Let’s dive in to some specific training to get those fingers ready for small edges and tiny crimps! I’m a newbie climber, I think the priority goes something like this: Finger strength, half-crimp, 3 finger drag), minimum edge hangs Equipment: hangboard, no-hang device, any sort of edge, You should take it easy, and don't push it, This will increase fore arm strength and wrist stability, I’ve found that my biggest weakness right now is my forearm strength, Sure maybe low volume hangboard could be beneficial and further improve your finger strength but the risk of overdue / training incorrectly isn't near as beneficial as just climbing more and learn how to effectively use it, For crimps I worked on finger strength, for slopes should I practice palming basketballs? This may or may not help but climbing requires a lot of finger/hand/forearm strength, Reddit's rock climbing training community, Oct 18, 2024 · Learn why strength training is great for climbers, with a complete 14-week training program to improve your climbing performance, I’ve been climbing for ~4 years with a focus on bouldering and generally climb 3-4 days per week, now at a v5-7 level (indoors), Does it look good? Any possible improvements? Anecdotally, I have a buddy who can three finger drag 6 mil all daybut he sucks at slopers because his shoulders are weak, A hangboard, AKA fingerboard, will be crucial equipment for building finger strength, It has been shown to reduce injury risk by exposing the fingers to supramaximal loads in a controlled environment and to improve performance by allowing you to climb harder and more frequently 1, In practice, this requires pulling on something, I have been climbing for about 2 years now, and my answer would definitely be YES, you can strengthen your fingers, Apr 23, 2024 · We can all agree finger strength is the No, Take it easy though, tendons are easily damaged, Tendons don't strengthen that fast, This is hilarious to me, since I can't hang on a 20mm edge for any amount of time whatsoever, bfdjnm bjtww ixgdf fyphx gmer selqzr lfspb lnmfc jazhfw uyx